Golden Triangle Speedway
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Author Topic: limited with a fever  (Read 1739 times)
nobodyjm
Newbie
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Posts: 16


« Reply #15 on: August 17, 2010, 10:43:34 pm »

lol,...no problem,  i checked that, blows back towards the motor, blades are on corectly, sometimes its the simple things that get us. thats why im on here to get all ideas.  thanks
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Racer_88
Newbie
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Posts: 203



« Reply #16 on: August 17, 2010, 11:35:39 pm »

This heating can be very tricky......... single pass, double pass, tripple pass and restiction or no restriction this all has merit on the cooling of the engine and when all is said and done it is about getting the right amount of air across the radiator. Limiteds all run such a smal radiator they are always on the verge of overheating. Look at the different manufacturers and the fin count on the radiators... whether it is a single double or trople pass getting the air through the radiator is key. fin count can also make up for lack of area for cooling the water.
The stock water pump is hugh as far as water flow or more so water pressure. as with the stock pumps the impellers a cheap and open backed and will allow the pressure to bleed around the impeller and cause cavitation in the flow of the water. I would run the best pump that your budget will allow and be sure the impleller is a closed impeller style.
I have gone as far as to take a stock pump and pop rivit a plate on the back of the impeller wich knocked out 20 degrees of cooling.
I run a largere radiator with the poly fan and the only air crossing the radiator is the air that is pulled from under the car and have to run a 180 degree thermostat to get any temp out of mine.

Also use a very good cap.

Good luck
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Chuck 88 SS
agnasty92
Newbie
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Posts: 199


« Reply #17 on: August 18, 2010, 12:19:18 am »

is there anything infront of your radiator restricting the air flow?
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jacob 409-673-9603
st.stock38
Newbie
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Posts: 324


« Reply #18 on: August 18, 2010, 02:25:57 am »

Make sure you don't have a water pump for a later model application, the





 pump fins inside are just the opposite of a early model application, found out the hard way.  and they look all the same!
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haulsas
Newbie
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Posts: 494


« Reply #19 on: August 18, 2010, 03:22:08 am »

 I did the pop rivett 3 blade thing years ago...If you know were to find some more please let me know....thanks in advance.......
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agnasty92
Newbie
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Posts: 199


« Reply #20 on: August 18, 2010, 05:05:04 am »

i had this problem a few weeks ago with my hobby stock and we would have never known it if i hadnt of broke a upper a arm bolt. cuz my gage stopped working!!! the radiator was boiling over and the overflow was bloated haha all it was i had a plastic thing infront of my radiator and we thought it could get air. i dont know about limiteds but all we did was drill holes in it and it fixed it. just check for little minor stuff that could cause it. or i saw some stuff at orielys that says it will drop the engine temp up to 20 degress. im not shure how good it works or how well it drops the temp but its worth a shot. and im not shure but would rust in the radiator cause it? i have another radiator your welcome to try it out im not shure wat type it is. it was given to me when i bought my motor. if you want to try it my number is 409-673-9603.
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jacob 409-673-9603
nobodyjm
Newbie
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Posts: 16


« Reply #21 on: August 18, 2010, 02:35:00 pm »

yes every 5-6 weeks i have to unplug the cores in the inlet because rust and silicone (mostly rust)get in them and plug them up.
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thomas64
Newbie
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Posts: 10


« Reply #22 on: August 19, 2010, 01:49:58 pm »

Get rid of the electric fan, get a gm 4 blade fan. Would recomend a double pass radiator. If you still got a problem, get he heads checked.
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nobodyjm
Newbie
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Posts: 16


« Reply #23 on: August 21, 2010, 03:38:16 pm »

    THANKS,....... for all the input.
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